Make your own organic chicken feed mix with worms and grain

If you see that scrape antics of the chickens and look in the backyard and coming about a tasty worm or roundish insect their body language shows roughly near the city of joy.

With Red worms as organic chicken feed

When breeding and raising of Red worms do not work you can then decide, buy your own supply of chicken feed suppliers. They sell the most definitely Red worms as organic chicken feed.

Brined Whole Chicken BBQ Recipe

Brined Whole Chicken BBQ RecipeIngredients:1/4 cup pickling spice (1/2 of a 1-1/2-ounce jar)2 quarts water1/3 cup salt1 broiler-fryer chicken, 2-1/2 to 3 pounds.

important tips beginners should know to increase chickens

If you want to join the train of raising chickens in your backyard, should the appropriate information or know about it, how to do.

Angry chicken disease peril chicken soup industry

he first suspected mad chicken was NEW disease in the United States reported on Tuesday and $98 billion chicken soup threatens to devastate industry

Monday 18 February 2013

The Plush Bunny and The Cottontail Rabbit

The plush bunny is a popular choice of soft toy next to the teddy bear. It's a terrific first-time stuffed animal for a young child and equally as good for someone a little older. For those that are partial to all things to do with rabbits, a plush bunny or two is a great way to begin a collection.

While there are more than one species of cottontail rabbit, the eastern cottontail is the one most people are familiar with. It can be found living in Canada right through to South America and in the United States from the East Coast to the Great Plains. The coloring of the cottontail rabbits ranges from reddish brown to gray with a white underpart but it's its white, short, fluffy tail that looks like a cotton ball tail for which it gets its name.



The cottontail breeds in March right through to early fall giving birth after 28 days to three to eight young. Females don't dig their own burrows, but instead, scratch out what is no more than a depression in the ground, usually in an area of dense grass so they can ensure to remain hidden; they then go on to line their nest with fur and dry grass. A female cottontail can have anywhere from two to four litters per year with babies born blind, naked, and totally helpless. They grow very quickly, however, and leave the nest after about two to three weeks. At four to five weeks, babies are totally independent and weaned from their mother. Only about 15 percent of baby rabbits will go on to survive their first year.

Unlike many animals which hibernate in winter, cottontails are active throughout the entire year. They come out mainly at night in search of food. During the day, they will stay hidden in dense brush where they can be protected from bad weather and predators. When the weather gets particularly harsh or to get away from a predator, cottontails will make use of burrows abandon by ground hogs.

Cottontail rabbits have great hearing and eyesight. When they sense danger, they will freeze in place until the danger has 'disappeared.' However, if getting too close, they will run immediately, usually moving in slow, short jumps or hops. When really frightened, they can reach speeds of up to 18 miles per hour over short distances and run in a zig-zag type pattern so as to confuse whatever is pursuing them. While they don't go in the water very often, cottontails are also very good swimmers.

When choosing your plush bunny, ensure it has a tail - while it doesn't have to be exactly like the cottontail rabbits', something similar would give the plush bunny a more authentic look. Like teddy bears, the plush rabbit comes in a variety of colors, including pink, purple, green, and blue, especially when close to the Easter holiday. If it's realism you're going for, stick to the same type of coloring found on the real thing.

Angeline Hope is a collector of giant stuffed plush animals. You can view a selection of giant stuffed plush animals including plush bunny toy animals at MyBigPlush.





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The Most Significant Essentials for Rabbit Care Are

Rabbit hutch supplies are important if you are looking at keeping rabbits. The absolute necessity is that you have a rabbit hutch. If you are looking at keeping more than just a single rabbit for your home, then you're going to need more than one hutch because rabbits have a tendency not to get along too well. I'm going to provide you with three rabbit hutch supplies you need to have to take care of your rabbits.

A Rabbit Shelter



You need to provide your rabbit with a place to live, so you will need to get it a rabbit cage. There are lots of different types of rabbit cages, from small to large to multiunit, and even multilevel.You are going to have to determine the space that you have available for the cage as well as how many rabbits you wish to keep in order to determine which cage you want to buy.

Rabbit Cage Waterers

Probably one of the most important things that you need for your rabbit hutch, is a watering system. Your little guy needs water to live so providing it with inadequate water supply is vitally important. You can find a lot of different types of watering systems on the market today, some are automated which makes the task of watering your rabbits a lot easier. If you have a bunch of rabbits that you're raising for food, then having an automated water supply could be a real bonus for you and make your life a lot easier. The most common type of waterer though is the simple type that straps to the side of your cage with a metal tube coming at the bottom. When I was a child and raising rabbits, the type with the tube coming out of the bottom is the type that we always used.

Feeders

Another thing that you rabbit needs to survive is food so you will need to provide it with a rabbit feeder. Rabbit feeders are simple things that you strap to the outside of the hutch with a hole through the cage so that none of the space for the rabbit is lost from it being inside. You can also just simply put in a bowl for your rabbit to eat out of, but this has a tendency of getting really messy. Placing a rabbit feeder on the outside of the cage is without a doubt the most sanitary and best method of feeding your rabbit. If you are in the market for starting a rabbit care, then you will definitely need to find a rabbit hutch for sale. Follow this link for a really great resource.





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The Fancy Grooming and Styling of a Lionhead Rabbit

For those of you blessed to own and care for a Lionhead Rabbit, kudos to you. They are an amazing breed of rabbit; warm, friendly, and exceptionally smart. Those of you who own a pet but are clueless to what a lionhead rabbit is, here is a brilliant site with a great description of lionhead bunnies. Now, on to business.

As with any long-haired woolly pet there comes a time when you just have to deal with the fur and rid yourself of those nappy hairstyles they tend to develop. The Lionhead is no exception, if not groomed regularly it begins to look more and more dreadlock-ish. That would be fine if the rabbit is going for that particular look but it will be prone to pesky lice or mites. Grooming should be done with regularly frequency every 3 days if you really want to sport a good-looking and healthy rabbit.



You will need: - a wire toothed comb with rounded ends - a sheet of newspaper - scissors with rounded ends - small clippers, preferably some that are not loud - small bottle of mineral oil - cotton swabs - a wire brush with rounded ends - some classical music in the background, preferably anything Bach

First, Find a flat surface one where you have ample space to set the lionhead down. Line the surface with the long sheet of news paper, more than one layer if you prefer. Place your tools close by for easier accessibility. Place the rabbit on top of the paper. Hold the lionhead with your left hand, placing your fingers gently by the nape of the neck. At this point you will begin to comb the fur starting from the head and slowly moving towards the nape. A word of caution, lionhead rabbits have extremely delicate skin. A motion of the comb too rough and you will break through the dermis injuring the animal. Avoid haste when performing this task. Slowly comb through the fur away from the body and following the natural grain of the hair. The grain is the general direction in which the hair grows, it can easily be seen if you look at the base of the hair growth by parting it.

Second, as you continue to comb the hair you will encounter knots. These knots can injure your lionhead if combed through vigorously. The best practice is to hold the bundle of hair that is knotted at the base with one hand while you comb the portion above your hold. With this technique you can comb through the knot without pulling the hair, and thus avoiding tension being directed at the skin. I have encountered many a bunny-owner who have combed roughly and the very knots pulled and teared the skin. Most knots will be around the joints of the rabbit and his underside.

Third, nastier than knots are the matted portions of hair. They are different from knots as they are far more compressed bundles of hair, essentially dreadlocks. These dreadlocks must be taken care of with the utmost care. If left on the rabbit they can collect feces and urine, ultimately breeding grounds for parasites. These parasites can and will break through the dermis and infect the lionhead. Often times dreadlocks are found under the rabbits tail by the anus, at the belly, at the front side of the neck, under the chin, and at the feet. I recommend using your fingers first to pull the bundle apart making it easier for comb through. Again, use the technique described earlier, holding the base of the hair firmly while combing through the dreadlock. With this technique you cut off the tension from affecting the skin, avoiding injury. If a dreadlock is very stubborn then you can cut the piece of with the blunt scissors, make sure to cut at about 1/s inch below the dreadlock if possible.

Fourth, try dividing the rabbits body into sections. This will make the job easier and faster. Head, then neck, then back, then sides. Always combing in the direction of growth, thus away from body. Then flip the rabbit over holding it carefully against your lap, as its back naturally curves concavely. Comb the underside by starting with under the chin, neck, belly, and lastly anus region. Remember to deal with knots & dreadlocks as they come up and with the utmost finesse. Often times it is better to keep the underside of the rabbit shaved to short length approx 3/4 inch. This will make grooming easier for you and the rabbit. This can be accomplished in the same way as combing. Be very careful with the teeth of the clippers, avoid digging into the rabbit's skin. Hold a bundle of hair with your free hand as you run the clippers gently through the bottom near the base of the hair. If your lionhead rabbit it is severely knotted and has large amounts of dreadlocks it is always better to send to a professional. Once the rabbit has been professionally groomed continue to groom the rabbit with high frequency to avoid the build up and save some money while your at it.

Lastly, lightly dab a cotton swab in mineral oil and clean around the rabbits anus region and ears. Lightly go over the rabbits hair once more with a brush to finish up. Clean up your work are and give you lionhead bunny a treat for being so cooperative. I hope this basic guide has been of insight for you. Finally, if you are ever curious about the Lionhead breed, review this site, I stumbled upon it during my research lionheadrabbit.org have a splendid day with your lionhead bunny. Cheers





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